Theater Review by Walter Murphy . . . .
The Worst Cafe in the World should not be confused with the venue where it takes place, Ryan’s Daughter. This Irish pub has been an Upper East Side mainstay since the 70s and was even a watering hole during Prohibition. Nor is the play a revival of the 1970 movie starring Sarah Mills and Robert Mitchum, based on Flaubert’s novel, Madame Bovary. The Worst Cafe in the World is where to go for a fun evening of theatrical immersion, and is part of the Origin 1st Irish Festival, offering an intimate setting for pranks, merriment, songs, and scenes from the theater’s greatest hits.
Patrons/audience are welcomed into Ryan’s upstairs pub by the cast, who remain in character—as waiters and performers—throughout the approximately one-hour performance. With only 10 tables, the setting is intimate and collegial. The premise of the play is waiters performing scenarios based on each table’s order (from the menus provided). The menus—Small Plates and Chef’s Tasting Menu—are used to create the evening’s performance.
From the Starters menu, the selections immediately enlivened the room through the use of props and genial silliness. For instance, an order for a “Philly” caused the theme from the movie Rocky to be played while the performers ran about and struck Rocky poses. Apple Turnover had our table shown an apple that was then turned over. Granny Smith featured a Virtual Reality headset with an elderly woman named. . . you get the idea. Although a bit slow to get the concept and understand what we would be experiencing, suddenly the room caught on, gleefully. The performers’ energy was infectious.
The Small Plates and Chef’s Tasting Menu selections were where the performers excelled, presenting scenes and songs from various well-known productions. Our table’s small plate selection was “The Exit,” so we were treated to a tableside excerpt of Ibsen’s A Doll’s House by Anna. A table next to ours selected “The Aristocrat,” and they received an excerpt from Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen. For me, the proximity to the performers heightened the theatrical experience.
Chef’s Tasting Menu selections expanded the repertoire so the performers acted together. Again, for instance, our table chose the Greek Mezze Platter, so the room was treated to Sophocles’ Antigone. Other tables chose the Scottish Dish, German Sauerballad, and the American Burger and received scenes and songs from Macbeth, Cabaret, and The Piano Lesson. Possibly in a nod to its inclusion in the Origin 1st Irish Festival, Irish Stew cooked up a scene from Waiting for Godot. For the dedicated theater patron, you can play the game, “Name That Play” as each scene unfolds.
The ensemble cast—Anna Lieberman, Gabe Moses, and David Pica—were terrific. Working seamlessly together through the mayhem of the Small Plates servings to the intensity of the serious works, they easily transitioned to their respective roles in each reading. Gabe and David waited for Godot; Anna and David discussed the burial of her deceased brother from Antigone; Gabe argued that a piano is better served to purchase land. In addition to the readings, Anna sang, beautifully, Dolly Parton’s “Here You Come Again” (Country-Fried Chicken on the menu) and “Maybe This Time” from Cabaret. Girl can belt!
The pub setting might not be ideal for a theatrical performance but in this case, it was a great opportunity to experience the performers up close, literally. Unfortunately, the service was spotty (joking, joking), but the cast delivered ample food for thought and enjoyment.
The Worst Cafe in the World, a joint production of Big Telly and Tiny Dynamite will be at Ryan’s Daughter (350 East 85th Street, between First and Second Avenues) for one last performance this Sunday (April 21) at 2 PM; and then in Philadelphia at the Poth Brewery (3145 W Jefferson St, Philadelphia, PA), April 24 through May 5.
Photos Courtesy of Tiny Dynamite
